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London Hot Spots: Palace Living History

Adriane Berg's picture
Adriane Berg
October 30, 2006 - 2:54pm.
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Whether it’s your first, your fifth or your 15th trip to London, do not miss the newly restored, renovated and redecorated Palaces of Kew, Hampton Court, The Tower and Kensington. The reconstruction of these historic buildings and their grounds not only captured and recreated the look and “feel” of these historic prizes, but they reflect the rich history of events and personalities who frequented them during their heyday.

Thanks to the historians, architects, designers, craftsmen, workers and officials of the Historic Royal Palaces Trust, history comes alive in these palaces. From the first Royal occupancy of the Tower of London by William the Conquerer in the 1070’s to the “madness” of King George III at Kew Palace during and after the American Revolution, your visit to these palaces provides a genuine “you-are-there” experience.

What You Don’t Know About the Places You Know

Surely everyone has heard of the Tower of London, the infamous final home of England’s royalty and nobility before they were to be beheaded. The images of the Beefeater guards and the impenetrable vaults containing the Crown Jewels are well ingrained in Anglo-American historic lore. Even the famous Tower Ravens and the machinations of Richard III are familiar.

castleBut, who has heard the story of Colonel Blood? In 1671, Thomas Blood was caught redhanded trying to steal the Crown Jewels. While awaiting the headsman, Blood was inexplicably pardoned by King Charles after the two secretly met at the Tower. The pardon was accompanied by the awarding of a 500-pound yearly stipend to Blood from the crown. What did Blood have on the King? What services was Blood to later perform? That secret (as well as many others) comes alive in the restored Tower.

Likewise, there is the Hampton Court Palace. Its Tudor turrets and architecture make it the unmistakable home of Henry VIII, and the temporary residence of his soon to be ex-wives. It is here that Henry hosted banquets for huge numbers—1,000 people or more.

Perhaps less known is the Hampton Court Maze, made famous by Daniel DeFoe’s great description and the hopelessly lost but still uproarious heroes of “Three Men in a Boat.” Visited by hundreds of thousands, the maze is still fun.

But, what about the Clock? King George II occupied Hampton Court in the early 1700’s and ran the entire Court by strictly monitoring and enforcing the time scheme—a time for eating, for talking, for visiting wives and for consorting with mistresses. But where is the clock? The restoration and knowledgeable guides reveal all.

And speaking of King George, the successor of George II, George III presided over the loss of the American colonies from Kew Palace. Everyone knows he was “mad,” but a visit to the restored Kew gives you a look into the atmosphere and feel of the place during George’s bout with “porphyria,” a disorder caused by a change in the amount of nirogen-containing substances found in the blood. During King George’s “madness,” Kew was home to intrigue of monumental proportions; doctors debated doctors, Lords battled Commons while Queen Charlotte tried to hold everything together.

Travel England’s First Superhighway—the River Thames

riverIf all of this sounds exciting, you are right. But there is more. All the palaces in the Historic Palaces—from the Tower to the Kew—are situated on the banks of the Thames. They are connected by both history and geography. The Tower is the furthest downriver and is in London itself and is accessible by underground, bus or taxi. Additionally, the river boat transportation is available to visitors.

So go ahead and check yourself into one of London’s great hotels (my personal favorite is the Athenaeum) and put yourself in the hands of the concierge. Boat trips on the Thames will get you to all of the Palaces, and back, in plenty of time for dinner.

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